So you say that you didn't notice the laptop temperature getting any lower, but this isn't too surprising to me, since this thing is going to be highly thermally limited.

I suspect that your setup is doing something, but the thing it's doing is allowing your laptop to sustain a certain performance level for longer. So what I would look at is some performance metric like e.g. peakflops() in a loop, or a video game FPS counter, and compare with and without the external fans.

So close to greatness.

I've dabbled in this and the one thing that absolutely has to be included is a seal on the edges between the laptop and the stand like so:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126317216434

Otherwise the air will escape to the sides.

For my home project I used foam tape, but any seal will do.

Regarding cooling I wholeheartedly recommend one Framework 16 owner's journey in making his device maintain 80°C with the CPU going full throttle (aside from other mods):

https://community.frame.work/t/all-the-modifications-ive-mad...

I'm using the Ikea Drönjöns laptop stand. It is made of metal so it conducts heat to wider area. That is probably more important than some extra fans.

We need way more of this content! Things that were tried and failed. I have spent so many head-scratching hours on problem solution approaches that others likely already tried and failed. In science we only celebrate success. Even then it is typically poorly documented.

Probably a monster chip like that has way more headroom than you expect, and can max out the extra cooling you’re giving it as well. If the goal is to avoid the 90C blast, maybe enabling thermal throttling plus using the custom cooling setup will give you (much?) less of a drop in performance than throttling with stock cooling?

Well - the challenge is with the right type of fans.

I like the idea of a pump curve for a garden water pump. If you pump water without any back pressure (not even a hose connected), the pump will give a certain volume per time that is can move. If you connect a hose and pump upwards, you will reach a max pressure / max height at which no water will flow any more. Both cases are useless, but this is what the manufacturer prints on the box. Your sweet spot is in between. If you pay enough, you will get a datasheet with the pump curve in between these two points.

For simple and cheap PC fans, you are at most given the number of air volume without back pressure. I've not come across a cheap fan that gives a defined backpressure of even a curve.

For your application you would need a fan that can push air through a restriction.

I had success with high rpm server fans. They create pressure, consume 20W of power or more and also make a lot of noise. But in this case - this is not a solution

FTA: “In the end, I’m not really sure we can just put dissimilar fans in series. If you put a fan that can pump (say) 200 cubic feet per minute (CFM) in series with a fan that can only pump 100 CFM, what is the resulting output? Probably not 300 CFM.”

“Dissimilar” isn’t needed there.

https://www.rotron.com/Resources/Application-Notes/Series-an...:

“When applying more than one fan in a system:

- "n" fans in series will increase pressure "n" times at a given flow rate, with no additional free delivery flow. Fans in series can be useful in high resistance systems.

- "n" fans in parallel will increase flow "n" times at a given pressure level, with no additional shutoff pressure generated. Fans in parallel can be useful in low resistance systems.”

So I had a similar problem and what actually worked pretty well was an external vacuum fan [1]. I tested it before by just using an inflator I had to pull a vacuum and I watched the CPU temp drop so I knew this was valid.

[1] this is just example, there's better ones I'm sure. https://www.amazon.com/KLIM-Tempest-Laptop-Cooler-Vacuum/dp/...

I drilled some holes in my Framework laptop's bezel.

It isn't designed to be used with the lid closed which is what I do 99% of the time. After drilling the performance with the lid closed went up 30%, with the lid open up 5%. Removing the bezel with the lid open gives extra 10% vs normal bezel.

The nice thing is these can be swapped easily (magnets) and come in different colors. I used to have 2 until I stopped caring about my laptop looking weird in public.

Compact electronics rarely have vents "close" to the things that get hot - it's been heat pipes for a long time already; and that system is fixed and "scaled" for the included fan(s)... Not much anyone can do in practice without taking the laptop apart - at which point you'd be better off buying a (mini) PC in the first place.

Also: thermals in general are vastly more complex and tricky than our intuition tends to tell us (with the article being a great example of it!).

Seems P53 has plastic chassis, I bought fan stand for my laptops that have metal chassis because that is used as heat sink. With metal you don’t need magically placed fans you just want to cool the surface.

For overpowered CPU that should not be in laptop it won’t help anyway, I had core i9 and best thing to do was to sell it and just swap to core i7 because there was no home made trick to make it better even with metal chassis.

It's a pity laptop manufacturers haven't figured out how to dissipate heat by using the lid as radiator. I read about some experiments years ago where they managed to get rid of like 25W

CPUs control frequency themselves and throttle. No need for manual throttling.

And it also might be a problem with the cpu paste and not with air.

If I had a penny for every time a heat engineer's suggestion was discarded because it's too expensive, too time consuming to implement this late into the project or too impactful on weight or size I'd be rich already. The only guys I know that are ignored more than them are the EMI filter designers ("what's EM noise anyways?")

Amazing they're called 'laptops' when you haven't been able to safely keep a laptop on the top of your lap for decades.

Even slight increases in temperature is enough to do damage to certain parts of a man, and it's really not good for your legs to have this extremely hot air blasted over it continuously.

Just a note: some laptop fans are not solely controlled by CPU or GPU temperature, but also by power consumption. This may explain why your laptops internal fans are still spinning up under load, even though the external fans do all the work already.

Raising it is the most important part. After that, if you can pop the bottom off while it's running, and swapping out the thermal paste are my go-to.

I got a laptop cpu in a desktop motherboard (a mini PC board). It was cheaper, and performs much better that the same cpu in a laptop. It was a steal. It's like shucking an hdd, an incredible value for the price.

How feasible would it be for laptop manufacturers to add a slot in a laptop's underside cover to the CPU's heat pipe, and adjust the heat pipe's shape at this location? This would allow a dock to insert its own heat pipe through it, and dissipate the heat with larger fans and/or larger heat sink.

> I picked the locations of the fans and their supports very carefully, and it’s clear that the intakes aren’t blocked.

Just double checking: Did you put the fans in the correct orientation and on the intakes instead of the exits?

Totally noob question: Couldn't the problem just be that the laptop body not conducting heat so much? I think it'd be worth to try it with a macbook.

wouldn't one need high static pressure fans for this to work?

Aren't those laptops designed to boost until it hits the max temp ? OP should test performance before and after.

Another thing author missed is thermal paste. I got way better cooling in my 2-year old framework by just replacing the dried out paste.

I’ve had some mild success with external piezoelectric coolers. However, the form factor isn’t ideal (weird angle, which led to a lot of returns from other people, so it’s no longer on Amazon)