| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago |
| The article is just wrong. And only mentions energy used for heating in passing. Heating requires MASSIVE amounts of energy. I should know bc I have a whole house battery and solar system (almost 30 kWh battery and 24kW solar). It keeps the lights on, but not heating. I live in a mild climate. The reality is that battery/solar requires major quality of life and activity time shifting trade-offs. |
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| ▲ | toasty228 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] |
| People still build houses like energy is cheap and abundant. A properly insulated house in any temperate climate require very little heating or cooling. Spend 50k on insulation that will last the life of the building instead of 50k on heating and cooling devices which will need constant maintenance and replacement + fuel and end up costing 10x more over the life of the building. A modern house with modern insulation in a mild climate shouldn't even need a central heating system. You can get by with 500w toaster heaters in each room for the coldest time of the year |
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| ▲ | brianwawok 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | In the short term the math is usually bad. Can be a 20, 30, 40 year payback on insulation. For the builder? It’s almost for sure a loss unless he can play the green card. For any individual owner? They are likely to leave before they recoup a project like this. Appraisals on houses are price per square foot with a bedroom and bathroom modifier. Until people start pricing in energy efficiency in homes, say a price multiple of 0.8 to 1.2 based on the efficiency of the home? It’s going to be hard to math out.
Which yes is sad. | | |
| ▲ | maxerickson 3 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | I live in a moderately cold area and pay less than $2000 a year to heat a ~2000 square foot home. So something that improves the efficiency of the building would have to have a pretty low cost to even pay back at all. There's probably a few lower cost things that I am overlooking, to the tune of netting out a few hundred dollars of savings after however many years they took to pay back. | |
| ▲ | KaiserPro 3 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > Can be a 20, 30, 40 year payback on insulation. For the builder? In the UK, houses have energy ratings, which are largely not that useful, but they do allow estimated annual running charge. The house that I live in we moved in and were spending ~1.7k on gas a year. We needed to re-render the place, because it has a few missing pieces. we spent the extra £4 to put in 90mm of external wall insulation. We also had to replace the glazing. It was cheaper to get triple glazing (for some reason), however the results of that was that it was 6degrees warmer in winter, and 10 degrees (celcius) cooler in summer. Even with gas prices doubling, we spend about £70 on hotwater and heating. | | |
| ▲ | jillesvangurp 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | There's also the simple reality that houses with better energy ratings are worth more when they are sold. If you own a house, it's a good way to lower your bills and increase the value of your house. The only thing you know for sure when you pay hundreds per month for gas is that it goes out of the chimney. Over ten years, that adds up. Most houses you can probably do some sensible things that definitely earn themselves back in that kind of period while also increasing the value of your property. The inconvenience and financing tend to be the big obstacle. Add incentives to the mix and it becomes an easy choice in a lot of places. |
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| ▲ | Ajedi32 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Maybe a law forcing disclosure of average heating/cooling bills in the listing would do the trick? | |
| ▲ | pishpash 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | That's an appraisal problem. Even cars are valued on more things but they do have mpg plastered everywhere. |
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| ▲ | JKCalhoun 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | And never mind ground-source heat pumps [1] (although I know the topic was specifically solar). [1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_source_heat_pump | | |
| ▲ | toasty228 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | You don't even need to go that far, put 100m of tubing 2m underground and plug it in your heat recovery ventilation system, bam free winter freeze protection/pre warming and free summer cooling, all you need is a 30w pumps and you will save hundreds of kw per year | | |
| ▲ | a_random_name 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | uh no... You still need a heat pump. The water coming from that system would be like 50 degrees, far too cold for heating. | | |
| ▲ | benlivengood 7 minutes ago | parent | next [-] | | Heat recovery ventilation systems exchange inside air for outside air through an air to air heat exchanger (modern energy-efficient houses are built too tight for natural air exchange). If you make the incoming outdoor air an even 50°F (except when the outdoor temperature is between about 50° and 70°) then you spend less on heating and cooling. | |
| ▲ | toasty228 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | I think my comment is pretty clear about the use case, this is obviously not water for your floor heating. You shouldn't even have that in a properly insulated house, way too much inertia. There are electric floor heating graphene foils that put out 20w per sqm, they're more than enough, no moving part, no maintenance, no bs, not even 20% of the price of a hydro floor heating, you can even install them yourself |
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| ▲ | aidenn0 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | I could not retrofit my house for efficient heating with $50k. To do so would likely be cheaper to completely tear it down and rebuild. | | |
| ▲ | rickydroll 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | same here. 1940's house with slate roof and vermiculite "insulation". You can't just use modern insulation techniques or blown-in foam because that would make exterior wood rot. You need to keep the air flowing the right way to dry out the wood. | | |
| ▲ | FuriouslyAdrift 2 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | Same here... my walls are brick that need to breathe or they will crack and crumble within years if sealed up too tight. Same goes with the cinder block foundation. If insulated, it moves the freeze/thaw interface inside the block and then you end up with a failing foundation. | |
| ▲ | aidenn0 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | I have to clean the eaves of my house myself because nobody I hire will believe me that you can't point a pressure washer at the eaves without water getting inside the walls. "I'll just avoid the vents" doesn't work when you can see daylight between the roof and the wall all around the house. | | |
| ▲ | pixl97 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | I'm guessing you don't live in a place with tropical storms or really severe weather. Where I am your house would flood when 80mph+ winds blow the rain up your walls. | | |
| ▲ | aidenn0 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | Indeed, that is the case. However the house is only 55 years old, so a freak storm destroying it isn't out of the question. |
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| ▲ | friendzis 3 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > A properly insulated house in any temperate climate require very little heating or cooling. A "properly insulated" house still requires something around 0,5 W/m2/K. Modeling a moderate 120 m2 house in the coldest months when the temperatures hit 15-20 negative you still need 2,5 kW of heat with domestic hot water on top. Put in the efficiency of a heat pump and you are still easily looking at half a mega watt-hour per month. ~1MWh for a whole house is very reasonable number during winter months, sans electric mobility. That's entirely unrealistic to cover with batteries with current battery technologies alone, electricity generation is absolutely REQUIRED. Windmills can help soften the blow and storage needs substantially, but the TFA is about solar, which is effectively absent during the winter. | |
| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Yes you're right and I don't disagree. But a 500w heater isn't going to cut it when it's 20F outside. You actually have to run the heat as hard as possible when the sun is shining so you have some thermal momentum going into the evening. The end result is you're going to make big lifestyle changes to accommodate the energy. For example everyone sleeping in 1 bedroom and only cooking with an electric pressure cooker or low and slow with an induction range. | | |
| ▲ | toasty228 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | A house built to passive house standards requires less than 10w per sqm of peak heating demand, a 500w toaster will warm 50sqm, which is a decent room already. There are passive houses built at 2000m altitude in the Alps, some are made of wood and have literal strawbales for insulation, there are no excuses left in 2026 not to build good houses, it's more economical, more practical, more comfortable, more ecological | |
| ▲ | jacquesm 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | You could put that 500W into a heatpump. |
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| ▲ | baking 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Probably because energy is cheap and abundant. | |
| ▲ | zrail 3 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Would you be willing to quantify what "mild" means to you, maybe in terms of a USDA zone? There are maps for both US and Europe: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/pages/map-downloads https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:USDA_hardiness_zones... | | | |
| ▲ | arrowsmith 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Why shouldn't energy be cheap and abundant? | | |
| ▲ | pixl97 3 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | Take plants that can use enery from the sun 'freely'. Is it cheap for them? Not really when you look at the evolutionary battle between plant species. There is always another plant willing to take your place if you're inefficient, slow growing, not poisoning the ground around you, or some other trick to keep you alive. Any means to keep energy cheap and abundant must be by force because it is not a natural order. | |
| ▲ | toasty228 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | Not saying it shouldn't, I'm just saying it isn't. Housing should be free and taxes illegal but here we are. Some retard decides to go to war with Iran and it costs 30% more to tank your car, I'm not making the rules. Solar panels got 15% more expensive over night in my country too. What happens when they decide to mess around with China? They make 70% of batteries and panels. |
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| ▲ | newsclues 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | It costs a lot more than 50K to retrofit a house towards passive standards. Not everyone has the capital (even with gov subsidies) to make those investments, and it's generally the people who need to save a few bucks on bills the most that DONT have the money. | | |
| ▲ | toasty228 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | I'm replying to someone who bought a 30kwh battery and 24kwp setup, in my country that's already classified as a "local energy provider" I think they're doing OK financially. People still spend literal millions on poorly built and poorly insulated mcmansions today btw, it's not a money issue. | |
| ▲ | coryrc 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | GP's argument is the marginal cost when building new is roughly that amount, not that any house can be retrofitted for that amount. However, it's not that far off for retrofitting, if you do it when your siding already needs to be replaced. Add 3-5" XPS foam to the exterior of any standard house; if a basement you bring insulation several feet down and out below the ground. If cathedral ceiling, when replacing the roof you put 6-8" polyiso down over the sheathing before the new roofing material. If vented roof, get 1.5x code minimum blown in the attic. Air seal first, of course (1-hour of air sealing is the best ROI of anything you can do in an old house). But nobody wants to put that money up. |
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| ▲ | PyWoody 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| I live in a northern climate and I know multiple people who are net zero with solar+basic battery. Proper insulation and good windows go a very long way. For instance, I set my heat to 66F during the day and 60F at night. When I wake up in the morning, the register is usually still above 60F. |
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| ▲ | chongli 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | 66F is ridiculously cold to me, and I live in Canada where it can reach -40(F or C) in the winter. I would find that very uncomfortable and elderly people would be shivering constantly and highly susceptible to respiratory illness. I have a modern cold climate air source heat pump which essentially needs to run 24 hours a day to maintain a stable 20C when the outdoor temperatures reach -15C. Below that, the heat pump shuts off and the furnace kicks in to provide emergency heating. My thermostat is a modern one with full time-of-day and day-of-week scheduling for heating and cooling, but it doesn't matter because the heat pump by itself is not able to swing the temperature up (by even half a degree) on its own, so this causes the furnace to kick in every time the schedule calls for a higher temperature, defeating the entire purpose of time-of-day scheduling. I will also add that where I live (Southern Ontario) the sky is overcast 90% of the time during the winter. Solar panels, even somehow free of snow and ice, are going to produce almost nothing on those dark days. Add in the need to keep the panels free of snow and ice (presumably with heating, since nobody is going to be climbing around on their roof in the winter), and you'd likely reach energy net-negative trying to make use of them. | | |
| ▲ | sumea an hour ago | parent | next [-] | | Modern heat pumps can heat efficiently at -25 degrees Celsius or even lower. Not sure if they are available in Canada, but in Scandinavia (similar climate) they are pretty common. I also agree that 66F (about 19 degrees Celsius) is not comfortable during day time. It is fine for sleeping temperature. During winter homes in heating dominated climates typically have higher indoor temperatures. One advantage of lower inside temperature is that relative humidity stays slightly higher when it is very cold outside. | |
| ▲ | PyWoody 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | I actually live on the same latitude as Ontario so -40F/C is not unusual. Add in windchill, and it gets even more common, given my windy location. Yeah, I understand I'm probably an outlier at 66F. I was using the numbers more to point out how little a house temperature will drop with good windows and insulation. | | |
| ▲ | chongli 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | What year was your house built? Do you have a whole-house humidifier? My house was built in the late 1980s. It has decent insulation but not amazing. It still needs a lot of heating when temperatures plunge below -15C. I do not have a whole-house humidifier. I had one with my previous furnace but it had issues with mold in the filter and clogging of the condensate pump. |
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| ▲ | chrisBob 3 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | People acclimatize pretty well if you let them. We keep our house at 65F all winter, and set the AC for 85F in the summer and everyone is pretty happy. The payback period on a good sweater is not very long. | | |
| ▲ | esseph 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | 85?!? I've lived in extremely cold and extremely hot/humid places. I cannot imagine setting the temp in the house that high. |
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| ▲ | dnemmers 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | “elderly people would be shivering constantly and highly susceptible to respiratory illness.” At 66 degrees F? That sounds like put a sweater on if you’re chilly, not some near death extreme. Any evidence that such an ‘extreme’ would cause issues? | | | |
| ▲ | sillyfluke 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | >66F is ridiculously cold to me...I would find that very uncomfortable and elderly people would be shivering constantly and highly susceptible to respiratory illness. I know people who live in the Mediterranean and get by with no heating during the winter with indoor and outdoor tempuratures this low or lower, so it seems that one can be conditioned into doing so. Perhaps it's the presence of more sunlight on average rather than the temperature that makes the difference. | | |
| ▲ | chongli 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | You’re forgetting about humidity. Mediterranean climate has comfortable humidity year-round. Where I live, winter relative humidity is 0% because outdoor humidity is nonexistent from freezing temperatures. |
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| ▲ | detourdog 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | In the northwest corner of Massachusetts I converted an old school into an apartment building. I installed 2" of polystyrene on the outside and about a foot of cellulose in the ceilings. We relay on heatpumps for HVAC. I also installed a 50kW solar array. We don't start paying for heating until Nov/Dec and stop paying in Apr/May. Our Electric usage goes through the roof in Jan/Feb/Mar. Our weak point is that the exterior walls are about 40% windows. I hope to install better thermal shades which will cost about $80k. We also last fall installed a solar thermal array to for hot water and heat the hallway which is radiant floor. I would like to think we could achieve net-zero but I will likely need to expand the solar array by about 200%. Thermal curtains are more effective than good windows. Good windows are minimally helpful. | | |
| ▲ | PyWoody 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | Thermal curtains are a godsend. I remember reading about your journey and I hope it works out! I think it'd be money well spent. In my last house, I replaced single pane windows with properly installed, sealed, and insulated double-hungs and it practically cut my heat bill in half. I agree that modern window to modern window replacement probably won't get you much, though. |
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| ▲ | HoldOnAMinute 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Those brutally cold temperatures are really not compatible with most human beings | | |
| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | Weird because a significant number of humans beings in the USA immigrated at some point from a country in this climate. |
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| ▲ | mtoner23 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Net zero. But not effectively zero. They sell energy during the day when no one needs it and buy it an night when we all need it. If we all switched to solar and heat pumps there would be blackouts and an energy crisis | | |
| ▲ | PyWoody 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | What? They store the surplus in their batteries during the day and use it at night. I genuinely do not understand why people are so afraid of solar. It's baffling. | | |
| ▲ | juleiie 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | Solar generates like 1/10 in the northern countries for half of the year. No batteries currently can solve this. The problem with global ecological regulations is they never differentiate between countries on the equator or 30th parallel with countries around 60. They expect everyone to only run on sun and wind. It isn't possible. There has to be at least nuclear which is ridiculously expensive. It's generally not an easy problem to solve otherwise it wouldn't be a problem anymore. First sensible thing to do is to relax the expectations for countries like Poland that have no good way to compete with other countries energy wise because of geographical location that noone chooses. It is extremely unfair to treat everyone the same even though every country has different energy resources. | | | |
| ▲ | chongli 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Because the sun doesn't shine every day. Where I live, the sky is overcast 90% of the time in the winter. You can't charge the batteries during the summer and run them all winter. | |
| ▲ | blackcatsec 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | They've fallen victim to a catastrophically easy scare tactic, unfortunately. "The sun only shines during the day therefore solar is bad!" Dumb, but easy. | | |
| ▲ | applied_heat 3 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | In Toronto there is only daylight for 9 hours in winter Yes surely some days are cloudy So some days you get 5% capacity factor, and need some other energy source as well So it harms the economics of the venture Look at the profitability of companies building utility scale solar farms, they cost 100 million and the company hopes to get a 10% return and pay a 3% dividend. They still have to contend with moving parts for tracking the angle of the sun, fans on inverters, contactors, clearing snow, mowing grass, site drainage, tornadoes etc, so sometimes it is not as easy as it sounds All for a 7%? Why shouldn’t they just buy the s&p 500 and call it a day | |
| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | And in my experience as someone who is actually trying to DO something, is exactly right. But to be clear, it's less about night vs day and more about summer vs winter. | | |
| ▲ | caseysoftware 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | ^ This. I had a 20kWh array and 18kWh of batteries in Texas and it was GREAT in the summer. It'd start charging by 6am and be charged by 9am, even with simultaneous usage. Then we'd live off solar for the day (even with HVAC), go back on batteries around 9pm and they'd be out around 4am. No problem. But during an overcast winter day, the stack wouldn't get power until 8/9, not make it to 50%, start discharging by 4/5pm, and be out by 10/11pm. It would easily be 8-10 hours where we were wholly dependent on the grid. Not a problem, just a constraint to acknowledge and plan for. |
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| ▲ | aidenn0 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | At 66F, I struggle to do job because my fingers go numb and I can't touch-type well. If others have that problem, a small heat-lamp (like for a reptile cage) can locally heat just the area above the keyboard cheaply. | | |
| ▲ | declan_roberts 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | I use a desktop heating pad under my keyboard. It's an Apple thin, metal keyboard, which works really well for this. It uses about 20w. |
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| ▲ | 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | [deleted] | |
| ▲ | onetokeoverthe 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | [dead] |
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| ▲ | minajevs 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| 24kW solar "to keep lights on" is a funny way to underplay it. My house "summer" electricity usage is 60kWh per month, including water pump, DHW, septic and work from home for 2 adults. So 3h of your PV production would power my house for a month! Regarding heating - I live in cold climate. We had average daily temperature of -10c this january, with multiple lows at -25c, and most nights at -15c. The house is 116sqm. Our heatpump COP for that month was above 2, and we used 787kWh total to heat the house, which is not a lot, actually. At 15 cents per kWh it is 118 euros for heating, for the coldest month in a decade! Considering also that we do not pay for electricity since april until october (solar panels). We also paid less than those houses which use natural gas, wood pellets, etc. We also do not need to do anything to keep house warm. Also, during summer months we could "drive for free" in EV due to free solar electricity. All that just to counter your take on "major quality of life and activity time shifting trade-offs". |
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| ▲ | jakewins 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Respectfully, 30kWh is not much in this context. In 10 years every modern 2-car home will have 200kWh on the driveway just from the EVs; add a 100kWh whole home battery at a price point close to a 10kWh battery today and the calculus changes in most of the world. The cost of materials going into modern batteries easily leaves room for another 10x reduction in price, IMO where this all is heading is obvious. Zero marginal cost will win every day of the week. FWIW we run our cabin on 15kWh battery today year around, though we do run a small wood stove to supplant the heat pump on cold winter days. |
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| ▲ | LogicFailsMe 3 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | 40 kWH of storage and 9 kW of solar panels is all I need personally to live a 1st world lifestyle in the bay area mostly off-grid except for water and internet. | |
| ▲ | coryrc 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | I bet you didn't even see the tragic farce when writing your solution. Land development requiring ”2-car homes" is the driver of the problem! An apartment only has to heat one or two walls facing the outside instead of 4. That's 50-75% right off the top of your energy usage, with the mean closer to 75%. | | |
| ▲ | LogicFailsMe 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | There's nothing farcical about wanting one's own space where there's space to have one's own space. I'm grateful to no longer be sharing walls with a domestic abuse couple on one side and a midnight banshee on the other wall when she got busy. Energy is cheap, people are exhausting. | | |
| ▲ | coryrc 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | And that gets into another coordination problem we're unable to solve. It's a solved problem to build apartments where you can't hear your neighbors, but the builders don't have incentive to spend the money upfront to do so and we add regulations to make it more expensive for them to do so. So people go on thinking "apartments suck" and not the correct "we shouldn't let people build apartments which suck". Also, living in SFH isn't avoiding all problems. I'd rather live in a properly-built apartment than my old house when my neighbor left her dogs outside to bark for the entire work day, every single day, and all the city would do is fine her a hundred bucks every few months. (or if you want to say "rural", that's 1 a small fraction of the population and 2 I like hospitals). | | |
| ▲ | LogicFailsMe 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | And the usual engineer mindset to consider the options to be 1 or 0, no? I just live far enough from the center of it all that I have a vacant quarter acre and thicker windows that happened when the last owner's mistakes caught up with me the current owner. For medical, I have UCSF, and for major medical, I have medical tourism, something I fully endorse from experience. And yes, not everyone can do that. And well, I can't touch my toes and they probably can. Life's funny that way. |
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| ▲ | DanTheManPR 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| This is basically correct in the sense that we cannot simply just force everyone in, say, Minnesota to install electric baseboard heating, rooftop solar, and a battery pack, and then expect them to stay warm. There are periods of extended extreme cold and low solar flux where you would simply not be able to warm everyone's house - that's just physics. But there are a lot of extra things you can do as an intermediate steps to dramatically close the gap. The main ones are: 1. Homes can be renovated to improve insulation
2. Cold weather heat pumps can handle most mild winter conditions efficiently
3. Electricity doesn't all have to be locally generated - it can be transmitted from other parts of the country.
4. You can keep using fossil fuel peaker plants, and still have incredible reduced overall emissions |
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| ▲ | FEELmyAGI 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| > I should know bc I have a whole house battery and solar system This is not really a qualification to speak on how the grid works, at all. Actually having panels on your roof doesn't give you unique insight into how solar panels operate - there is extensive data out there, any PV installation can become a data source trivially. > The reality is that battery/solar requires major quality of life and activity time shifting trade-offs. One residence powering itself is not representative of how the grid works, and is not a good way to evaluate any power generation technology whether its PV, coal, nuclear, etc. |
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| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | I'm actually trying to accomplish what the author is describing, so I have experience to talk about the difficulty of its implementation (unlike the author himself, who has zero experience with its implementation to speak of). |
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| ▲ | cbdumas 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| The article is about utility scale solar and storage I believe not home installations. It also mentions towards the end that in cold norther climates adding wind to the mix makes sense |
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| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | Like I said he grossly understates the energy demand we use in the United States for heating during the winter. | | |
| ▲ | Tade0 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | I believe a lot of that demand is due to there being no incentive to increase energy efficiency. | | |
| ▲ | caseysoftware 3 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | There are TONS of incentives to increase energy efficiency. Most local electric and gas companies will do free energy audits. Many will offer rebates if you install tankless water heaters, heat pumps, and insulation. Installers get kickbacks from manufacturers and tax credits if you buy higher efficiency equipment. Lenders will give you 0% loans to fund it all. The Feds and many States offer tax credits for all of the above. I've done every single thing on this list in the last 5 years, some in Texas, some in Indiana. | |
| ▲ | 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | [deleted] | |
| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | I believe it to be a question of physics and not incentives. | | |
| ▲ | maxerickson 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | A wall is not a wall is not a wall. A well built home with more insulation will, according to physics, lose less heat in any given scenario. So policies that push for things that improve buildings can reduce energy use. Do you think we have reached peak building efficiency or something? | |
| ▲ | pixl97 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | Kind of silly to think when we've invented materials like areogel. |
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| ▲ | dv_dt 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Beyond the other better insulation comments, pairing electric with heat pumps that are SEER 10+ goes a long way to improve heating efficiency. Old resistive heaters are 1:1 on energy to heat, while newer heat pumps operate to much lower temperatures, and give you 1:10 or 1:15 electric:heat energy ratios. |
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| ▲ | bluGill 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | My heat pump is SEER 19, and it can't heat my house below 25F. I think this is mostly due to it not being large enough - it was sized to cool my house on the hot summer days, and more energy needs to move on the cold winter days. | | |
| ▲ | coryrc 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | SEER, while a useful first-order approximation of efficiency, is for cooling and not heating. HSPF-V is for cold climates. Likely you just don't have a cold-climate heat pump which maintains full capacity down to -10°C (and some a little lower still), even before you get into appropriate maximum capacity. |
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| ▲ | coryrc 3 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | That's not even close to correct. At the design lowest temperature (if <15°C), the very best get 2 COP, but most are 1.5 or lower. The problem is you have to accommodate the worst case. The average of installed units is closer to 2.0 COP average, unfortunately. Multi-head units really drive down efficiency. A single-head Gree Sapphire can do 4-5 COP on average and that's the best you can get, so still nowhere near your guess. | |
| ▲ | orthecreedence 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | > 1:10 or 1:15 electric:heat energy ratios Under what circumstances? I've seen higher-end units that do maybe 1:5 in ideal conditions (heating to 68F when the ambient temp is 55F), but never seen units that do 1:10 or 1:15. This was about 2-3 years ago I did this research. Have things improved that drastically in the last few years? | | |
| ▲ | eldaisfish 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | things have not improved. Too many folks here do not understand or care to appreciate the constraints of the real world. Heat pumps are excellent and relatively cheap but have limitations. One of the biggest limitations is that a heat pump's efficiency drops as ambient temperature drops. This is the worst possible situation for heating as the conditions when the risks of losing heat are the highest, are precisely the conditions when these devices are least efficient. |
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| ▲ | jacquesm 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| House heating does not require massive amounts of energy. What it requires is efficiency. I've seen a house in Canada that was heated with a single candle when not occupied. Triple wall, reflective foil in between the wall layers, vertical movement of air in the walls interrupted every 30 cm or so. Absolutely amazing. And it still had sizeable windows. If your house doesn't leak energy like a sieve you don't need to replace as much either. Between passive solar and some augmentation you can do fine on an extremely modest energy budget. And Canada is not exactly the warmest country on the planet. |
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| ▲ | Epa095 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| What's the actual effect you get out of that? Even half, 12 kW, would be an absolutte beast of heating (for a home), even with 'dumb' convection heating. With heat pumps 2-3 kW should really be enough. |
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| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | There's simply not a lot of sunlight to go around during the winter and the battery capacity isn't large enough. Keep in mind we WFH and homeschool so our house is used 24/7 and I think it's a good approximation for OP's goal. | | |
| ▲ | mr_toad an hour ago | parent [-] | | > the battery capacity isn't large enough This. You have enough generation to keep a mansion toasty, but you don’t have enough storage to last a long winter night. |
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| ▲ | j16sdiz 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| The insulation matters a lot in home heating. |
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| ▲ | bluGill 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | There isn't a lot you can reasonably do to something that is already there. I insulated my attic better, but there wasn't enough space to go as high as I wanted (I guess I could in the middle, but not around the edges). The thin walls are still thin, and not much I can do about it for a reasonable price. Likewise the windows are really bad, but the cost of good windows is large. By the time I insulated this house to modern standards I'm nearly half way to tearing it down and building something new (a complete destroy is a lot cheaper than trying to take something off without destroying the rest) - and a new house would get a lot of other benefits (I want a larger kitchen but there is no place to put it) Which is why a lot of poorly insulated houses still exist - people have mostly done what can be done for a reasonable price, but anything that will make a difference is also very expensive with very long paybacks. | |
| ▲ | PyWoody 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Proper windows make a huge difference, too. | |
| ▲ | gib444 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | And then you need proper ventilation systems once you "fix" insulation |
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| ▲ | FuriouslyAdrift 2 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Heating is mostly affected by the roof insulation and really should not be done with electricity alone. It's just not efficient. Cooling, on the other hand, is brutally expensive without living in basically an air tight Styrofoam box (or underground). |
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| ▲ | iamjake648 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Do you have a high efficiency heat pump, or how are you heating? |
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| ▲ | barbazoo 4 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | Heat pump is what I would have expected to be suitable for a setup like that. How big is the house I wonder. | | |
| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | I imagine my system is probably sufficient to keep an 800 sqft house comfortably warm in a climate where it goes down to the 20s in the winter. |
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| ▲ | lstodd 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | First question should be: what latitude? Because where I live around 55th this winter we had five straight weeks below -15c / 5f daily average plus enough snowfall that it was infeasible to clean anything but the most major roads. Solar is out of question in these conditions and when thermal pump fails you have to evacuate. When just grid electricity fails you have to either have some sort of stored fuel backup or evacuate. The article is typical handwavy crap which is popular among people living in what amounts to subtropics who can't even imagine how crazy they sound to most everyone else. | | |
| ▲ | mr_toad 42 minutes ago | parent | next [-] | | > The article is typical handwavy crap which is popular among people living in what amounts to subtropics who can't even imagine how crazy they sound to most everyone else. Most everyone else? Only about two percent of the Earths population live above the 55th parallel. There’s a big gulf between that and the ‘subtropics’. I don’t disagree that solar/battery isn’t the answer for 100% of power needs, let alone 100% of heating needs, but if we got to even 50% we’d be in a lot better situation than we are now. | |
| ▲ | Windchaser 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > The article is typical handwavy crap which is popular among people living in what amounts to subtropics To be fair, 90% of the population lives within 45 degrees of the equator. If we're talking about global energy solutions for CO2 reduction, we can go a long way just by focusing on what works in these areas of the globe. The article does also point out that hydro/wind are going to be important at higher latitudes in winter, but they also acknowledge that they don't account for seasonal variation in demand. That's the biggest flaw I can find in the analysis. FWIW: I'm down in a mild arid climate at 35N, and yeah, 90% of our winter days are nearly sunny, even when the lows are in the teens. It's a different world for sure. | | |
| ▲ | coryrc 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | Most space heating is in the Northern parts though, so those are the ones that need to be addressed. There are solutions that are a pareto improvement, but it's a coordination problem and the USA is sufficiently broken and unable to solve those. | | |
| ▲ | pixl97 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | > so those are the ones that need to be addressed. Make energy so expensive that people have to move away or burn their old house. | | |
| ▲ | coryrc 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | You'd think, but then you get Northeastern states paying poor people thousands of dollars a year to keep their oil heat going. |
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| ▲ | fch42 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | > "... handwavy crap ..." handwavy argument. Yes, in the (sub)tropics the argument is even stronger pro-PV, not the least because it'll give you the opposite of heating - aircon - for free right when you need it. And considering summer heatwaves as have been seen the last few years "way north", that benefit will extend that way even if you wouldn't bother considering letting it "assist", if not fully replace, your heating. That said though, for 50° polewards and above, if you wanted to use PV in winter orient the panels vertically. If you can clad your too floor with shiplap larch so you can with PV panels. Given the price of timber ... there's a plan. (only saying handwaving goes both ways) |
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| ▲ | panstromek 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| As far as I understood it, it only talks about electricity, so that doesn't seem like a contradiction to me. I think some electrification of heating is expected in 2030, but not that much bigger than it is now. |
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| ▲ | amluto 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Do check that your heater isn’t doing something ridiculous. A while back I helped someone debug a Mitsubishi Electric system on which the installer had set the fan speed control to high instead of auto (it’s an easily accessible setting on the thermostat). I forget exactly how much power was saved, but IIRC it was well over 30kWh/day. I don’t know where all that energy was going. I expected some improvement but not anywhere near that much. |
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| ▲ | ZeroGravitas 3 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Note that the article title has "the world" in it, immediately limits his specific claims to 80% of the world nearer the equatorr as most of the people in the world have more need for cooling than heating. He even has a map that covers this and multiple paragraphs of discussion about high latitudes and wind in winter. |
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| ▲ | ethagnawl 2 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| The article should have explored that aspect further but it's not all or nothing. For example, a geothermal setup could significantly offset the amount of energy required to heat a home. |
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| ▲ | mapmap 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| This is a large pv system for what I assume is a single family home. Do you have resistive in floor heating or an electric boiler feeding radiators? I imagine you could easily run a half dozen mini-splits drawing 500-1000w each, or a centralized heat pump. Happy to help if you can give more details. |
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| ▲ | dyauspitr 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Is a 30 kWh battery considered massive? My F-150 lighting has a 143 kWh battery. |
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| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | Yes 30 kWh battery is considered large. It takes up a full 6 slot 2u rack in my garage and cost around $8k. In the context of OP's goals it's larger than what 99% of people in the world will ever have. | | |
| ▲ | gpm 3 hours ago | parent [-] | | Approximately 1% of people in the world currently have an EV with a more than 30 kWh battery... and we're very early in the adoption curve of EVs and other large batteries. |
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| ▲ | daneel_w 2 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Gonna go off on a limb and guess that you live in North America where the state of the art in single-family homes is double-pane windows and thin outer walls made of cardboard and pressboard, clad with "luxurious" vinyl siding. I mean no offense to you guys. It is what it is. |
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| ▲ | Faaak 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Heat pumps help quite a lot, thanks to Carnot's law |
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| ▲ | abenga 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| If you need to heat/cool your home, is that really mild? |
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| ▲ | declan_roberts 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | Isn't it all relative? Cooling actually isn't a problem at all with solar. I can run my AC full blast during the summer and still get the batteries fully charged before evening. |
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| ▲ | fooblaster 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| where are you? that is a massive amount of solar in any place at a reasonably low latitude. Is your house enormous or are you heating your house with resistive heating? |
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| ▲ | Rover222 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Well obviously lights aren't using up much of that power, you're powering everything else too. |
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| ▲ | LogicFailsMe 3 hours ago | parent | prev [-] |
| My house in the bay area runs at <1kW per hour most of the time and the sunlight is more than enough to keep it above 65F most of the year. Maybe you need LED lights because when I'm not there, it's ~150W per hour. Of course actual data like this is downvote heresy! Go for it! Also, bite me. |