Key paragraph:

> The data proves that the gear of the past is capable, but it has a narrower operating window. If you stop moving in Mallory’s kit at 8,000 meters, you will freeze quickly. Modern gear buys you a safety margin if you become static.

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chis 4 hours ago | parent | next [-]

We’ve had the ability to make water/wind-proof garments long before Gore-Tex. The crucial thing is that Gore-Tex is water vapor permeable. So it has a way better ability to shed excess heat without needing to take off a layer.

Traditional materials still have a place though. Material science has not beaten down feathers or wool yet, for the most part.

	▲	mmooss 2 hours ago \| parent [-]
		> Gore-Tex is water vapor permeable. So it has a way better ability to shed excess heat without needing to take off a layer. It's a way to shed water: Wearing waterproof, non-breathable layers often is worse than not, because the moisture your body releases and that gets trapped soaks you from the inside as surely and rapidly as the rain. (Maybe it's a bit warmer.)

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intrasight 5 hours ago | parent | prev [-]

That was the key takeaway for me as well and is very consistent with articles I've read in the past about mountaineers with gear that was adequate except when it was not - and that can make the difference between life and death.