| ▲ | bityard 4 days ago |
| My favorite mouse is the Logitech Anywhere MX. It's highly comfortable despite being pretty small. The back/forward buttons on the side are indispensable for web browsing, file management, and switching weapons in first-person shooters. It takes two AA batteries which last for months and take seconds to swap out. The dongle is small and has good range. The scroll wheel switches between clicky and free-scrolling. It's pretty much the perfect mouse, IMO, to the point that I built up a back stock by hoarding new and open box on eBay. But there are two main problems: 1) The the microswitches go bad after a couple years. It's possible to replace them, but it's tedious and you run a very real risk of damaging the PCB (as I have already done). 2) The dongle is USB Type-A only. Logitech actively refused to make a USB-C unifying receiver. I assume they wanted to shift to bluetooth but they still made unifying receiver devices for years and years after bluetooth was everywhere, so I dunno. As far as newer iterations, the Anywhere MX 2S is somewhat tolerable, but it has a built-in battery which must be charged every couple of months, which is annoying. All of the newer Anywhere MX mice are even worse because they changed the basic functionality/features of the mouse with each revision. Oh, yes and they cost $90 (!) retail now. So basically one of my side-projects, one of these days, is going to be to try building an open source Anywhere MX clone. Should be a fun yet challenging endeavour. I know there are a bunch of online communities making their own keyboards from scratch and at great expense, is there such a thing for mice? |
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| ▲ | phire 4 days ago | parent | next [-] |
| I like my Anywhere MX 3. The smaller size is actually ideal for my fingertip grip, and I actually like the rechargeable battery. It lasts well over a month on a single charge and then charges really quickly (if it ever does go flat, just chuck it on the charger while you make a coffee, 2-3 min is enough to last the rest of the day). And I love the scroll wheel. The microswitches going bad is a massive downside. I read somewhere that it's caused by static build up due to Logitech using much lower voltage/current than what the switches were originally designed for... After a bit of experimentation, I found that simply breathing warm air into the side of the left button clears up my issues for a few days.... Which is stupid annoying workaround, but what else am I going to do, buy a second one which probably has the same flaw? |
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| ▲ | mbreese 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | I too use the mx 3. It’s a great mouse that can also travel easily in my laptop bag. I went to get a new one to keep at my office last year and noticed that the buttons had changed from clicky ones to silent ones. That drove me nuts and I returned the new version. However, the issue you mention with static and the buttons might explain the change. I thought it was just a vendor making a good device cheaper to manufacture. Maybe it was a better version after all? | | |
| ▲ | phire 4 days ago | parent [-] | | Yeah... apparently the MX Anywhere 3S uses new "silent" switches, which I was hoping might fix the issue. But I've found one post complaining about bad switches on the Anywhere 3S and a few complaining about the MX Master 3S (which uses the same switches?). I'm sticking with my current mouse for now, since I know it's quirks. | | |
| ▲ | rpozarickij 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | I switched to the MX Anywhere 3S from the Anywhere 3 and now it has become my favorite mouse by far. I have one at the office and one at home. The silent buttons feel just right for me and the higher sensitivity has been a game changer in terms of the overall experience of using the mouse. The movement feels so much smoother and more natural than with the Anywhere 3. I also use LinearMouse (I'm on macOS) for configuring the mouse and it covers all my current needs. My configuration mostly consists of: - Disable pointer acceleration - Set tracking speed to 1 - Reverse scrolling - Scroll by 4 lines - Button #4 for Cmnd+W (close current tab, which works in most applications) - (No explicit change) Button #3 default action (go back) Together with the MX Keys Mini it's a liberating feeling being happy with the peripherals and not wanting to change anything (except for a few small annoyances with the top keyboard row). | |
| ▲ | esseph 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | I have a couple of 2s/3s. I like the 2s feel better. I like the 3s USB C portable better. | | |
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| ▲ | tracker1 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | I'm a pretty big fan of the M500 series myself.. I like the weighted scroll wheel. I actually wish it were maybe 15-20% bigger and slightly heavier myself. |
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| ▲ | Liftyee 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Not sure about online mouse communities, but it intrigued me that you prefer replaceable AA batteries to built-in rechargeables. I realise now that because of my dislike (leaning towards hatred) of single-use alkaline batteries I unwittingly dismissed the benefits of having quick replaceability. Nickel metal rechargeables are a good AA/AAA substitute for devices designed to tolerate their lower voltage. For more power, 14500/18650/21700 cylindrical lithium cells are my go-to. Personally though, I find it more convenient to have a charging cable on hand vs keep some charged batteries on standby. When the built-in battery eventually goes bad, I am confident that I could replace it myself (not a universal position). |
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| ▲ | skywal_l 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | Had to use my old TI 89 one day. Haven't used it in 10 years. Took it out of storage, put in 4 AAA usb-c rechargable batteries, worked like a charm. Could you do the same with your hard to replace custom battery? Any consumer electronic using standard format batteries is superior by default. Because 10 or 20 years from now, it still have brand new full batteries lying around. | | |
| ▲ | jamesgeck0 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | I have an early digital video camera with a genius design. It came with a custom rechargeable cell in the battery compartment. But the compartment _also_ supports regular AA batteries. | | |
| ▲ | seany 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | Most petzl headlamps are setup this way for a small lipo pack or 3 aaa's. It's great | |
| ▲ | globular-toast 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Brother label printers used to support this up until a couple of years ago at least but sadly the most recent models have stopped having the AA compatibility. | |
| ▲ | autoexec 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | Absolutely the best of both worlds. You can find a shop selling AA everywhere in a pinch and keeping a few in the camera bag is easy too. |
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| ▲ | f1shy 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | I‘ve done this with my HHKB. Great solution. |
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| ▲ | Zak 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > Nickel metal rechargeables are a good AA/AAA substitute for devices designed to tolerate their lower voltage. Any device that can't is arguably broken as designed. Much of the energy (the majority, in a higher current application) in an alkaline battery is found under 1.2V. See discharge curves: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Duracell%20Ultra%... NiMH actually stays above 1.2V longer for all but the lightest loads: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Eneloop%20AA%20BK... | | |
| ▲ | jamesgeck0 4 days ago | parent [-] | | Unless the device was designed around the alkaline discharge curve! Smoke alarms rely on the lower voltage to give sufficient warning when the battery is low, and mine refuses to operate at all when powered by a rechargeable battery. | | |
| ▲ | imp0cat 3 days ago | parent [-] | | Try lithium-based AA/AAA rechargeables. These worked wonders for my finicky Instax Camera which refuses to use regular NiMH AAs because their voltage is too low. | | |
| ▲ | baq 3 days ago | parent [-] | | The issue with these is the low battery warning. Once the voltage starts dropping you don’t have much time to notice. Not a problem for active devices, but things like door sensors may give you just a few days between 80% and dead. | | |
| ▲ | imp0cat a day ago | parent [-] | | Absolutely. Different battery manufacturers use different discharge profiles, some gradually lower voltage in a few steps, others may just die with almost no warning, so it might take a few tries before you find a brand that works for your device. |
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| ▲ | swiftcoder 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | I too was surprised by this view when I started at Oculus, where the game controller folks who had come over from Xbox were adamant that players would rather swap in a fresh pair of AAs than plug into a charging cable. Personally I've never come around to their side of things, although I do recognise the inconvenience of charging cables while you are using a peripheral (Apple Mouse charging port location especially :D ) | | |
| ▲ | mmh0000 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | For me, I'll always choose a device with standard, user-replaceable batteries over a built-in battery. 1) If the device battery is dead, I can swap it out in seconds and be up and running immediately. 2) Built-in batteries fail, and replacing them ranges from difficult to near-impossible and often involves damaging the device's casing to get the built-in battery out. When I'm spending $100 on a computer mouse, I'd really like it to last longer than the life of the battery and not have to destroy the casing to get to the battery to replace it. | | |
| ▲ | xp84 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | IMHO Sony nailed this pretty perfectly 30 years ago on devices like the Discman: Have a footprint which can support a number of standard batteri(es), but engineer it so it also accepts and detects a specially-designed NiMH pack. When the special batery is present, allow the battery to be charged anytime external power is provided. Now you have the best of both worlds: Economical rechargable use for the 90% of the time that the user's in their normal routine, and easily ability to swap temporarily to universally-available alkalines in exceptional situations. Note: When I had one of these, I just used my own NiMH AAs and jammed a folded-up piece of cardstock against the detection switch, which worked perfectly fine. | | |
| ▲ | account42 3 days ago | parent [-] | | IMO just having the battery pack replaceable without tools is what matters more than using a standard one. As long as the device is even remotely popular there will be cheap replacements available. |
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| ▲ | xp84 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Regarding #2 the fact that probably the majority of battery-powered non-toy devices now are designed not to ever have their battery serviced is indicative of a (in my opinion) diseased mindset of disposability. Each of the components including battery and other wear parts are only spec'd to last about 12-18 months. We're being conditioned (by one-year warranties and by the lack of repairability) to think that it's normal and expected that you discard and replace everything smaller than a car every 18-36 months, and a car every 7 years or so because "obviously" anything older than these milestones is "obsolete anyway." | |
| ▲ | swiftcoder 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | Yeah. Though to be fair, the alternative in the controller space in that era was hot-swappable rechargeable battery packs - a ton of 3rd parties provided them for Xbox 360 controllers. |
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| ▲ | mitthrowaway2 3 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | I still use my Xbox 360 sometimes, and the only controllers that still work are the ones with AA batteries. The rechargeables have long since died completely. |
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| ▲ | devilbunny 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | I, too, prefer disposables, but for a somewhat different reason. One very commonly used surgical item is a sterile suction/irrigator. It's sealed with 8 AA's at the factory, used for 2-3 minutes during laparoscopic surgery, and disposed of. So pretty much anyone who works in a surgical suite that does laparoscopy has a personally unlimited supply of AA's that would be thrown away anyway. | | |
| ▲ | sethhochberg 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | Years ago when I worked in live audio we had a similar setup. Zero tolerance for a performer's mic pack dying mid show because a low battery indicator wasn't calibrated right or someone incorrectly tracked how many hours a particular set had been used, so it was fresh-from-the-package alkaline AAs installed before every set, and a virtually unlimited supply of half-charged disposables to take home afterwards. Plenty would get reused for internal equipment checks and sound checks, but there were still more than enough to go around. At the time (well over a decade ago) there was still lots of skepticism around recharagables and the extra process involved in dealing with them... but the tech has gotten lots better since, at that time even low-self-discharge was sort of hard to find. I'm sure much of the industry has moved over by now. | | |
| ▲ | devilbunny 14 hours ago | parent [-] | | When it has to be factory-sealed as sterile, there is no point in using a rechargeable. I would love to end the senseless waste in surgery, but The Powers That Make Our Lives Suck For No Reason want everything to be single-use sterile objects. |
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| ▲ | Scoundreller 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Same but with portable infusion pumps. They were always sent out with fresh sets but worked for days on a single set often leaving a lot of life. | |
| ▲ | rowanG077 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | Isn't that a biohazard strictly speaking? I'm not sure you want to get caught stealing used surgical equipment for home use. | | |
| ▲ | devilbunny 4 days ago | parent [-] | | It’s quite literally trash; I could hardly be described as stealing it. The batteries are in a separate container that is attached to the bag of saline used for irrigation. It’s not in the surgical field. | | |
| ▲ | baq 3 days ago | parent [-] | | > It’s quite literally trash; I could hardly be described as stealing it. Note that legally trash is still owned, usually by the person or entity which produced it, so it’s technically stealing. (Whether anyone cares is a different thing. If you picked bank letters instead of barely used batteries…) |
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| ▲ | Zak 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > it intrigued me that you prefer replaceable AA batteries to built-in rechargeables I share this preference. Replacing a battery has a device back in a working state a couple orders of magnitude faster than onboard charging, and when built-in batteries wear out, replacement is often difficult to impossible. I always use NiMH rechargeables; alkalines are wasteful and sometimes leaky. | |
| ▲ | dkll 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | If you have a a device that does not tolerate the lower voltage, check out NiZn rechargables. They top out at ~1.7 V when full and keep their voltage quite high until they are almost flat. (At which point they should be immediately recharged, they don't take deep discharge well.) I use them almost everywhere nowadays. Most devices tolerate the slightly higher voltage and even expensive hardware usually cheaps out on proper battery circuitry. | |
| ▲ | WhyNotHugo 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Replaceable rechargeable batteries are the best choice (assuming the weight doesn't bother you). You can quickly swap in a new pair, and recharge the other one. Some mice can even charge the batteries themselves. You get the best of all worlds. | |
| ▲ | bityard 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | I always have at least a half-dozen NiMH AA batteries sitting charged in the drawer ready to go. When the mouse stops working, I grab a couple of charged batteries, slap them in, put the drained ones in the charger and then carry on with whatever I was doing. With a built-in battery, when the battery goes dead, I have to mess around with finding another mouse while this one charges. (Yeah, the computer tells me when the mouse battery is getting low, but I do not have the discipline to remember to plug it in hours later when I'm done with the computer for the day.) | |
| ▲ | kjkjadksj 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | The thing with AA is that it gives you options. You can use rechargeable in it if you’d like. Avoiding proprietary batteries is a good thing because they are not always available or easy to service for the end user compared to AA. For certain activities like hiking having AA or AAA is preferred. If they run out of charge they are trivially replaced with a light weight inventory and this is probably sufficient to last your trip. | |
| ▲ | eviks 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > cable on hand vs keep some charged batteries on standby. You don't need to keep them, you get warned many days in advance, so an overnight recharge of existing batteries works just as well | |
| ▲ | gdwatson 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | My Logitech G603 runs quite happily on Eneloops, for the best of both worlds. |
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| ▲ | mikepurvis 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| I'm on an MX Anywhere 3S and overall I'm a fan. The killer feature for me is the Bolt receiver being able to pair to both the mouse and the MX Mechanical Mini keyboard and being able to have a second receiver that both devices can switch to. Unfortunately they have to be switched over individually rather than following each other (and the mouse's switch button is underneath), but still, this is a pretty killer configuration that I haven't seen offered elsewhere. For clarity, I plug my main receiver into my workstation and use Synergy to take the M&K over to an adjacent laptop in software, but the secondary receiver is useful when testing installers for NUC, Jetson, etc. Basically I've got a bare metal device on my desk plugged into a mini monitor and with one little dongle I can trivially get my keyboard/mouse on that device including in a preboot environment like the EFI firmware. |
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| ▲ | gunalx 4 days ago | parent [-] | | ist that the whole point of unifying recovers as well? or am I missing something? | | |
| ▲ | mikepurvis 4 days ago | parent [-] | | Unifying definitely lets you pair multiple devices (keyboard, mice) to the same dongle, but I'm less sure about whether it lets you pair multiple dongles to the same device(s) and then hot switch between them. | | |
| ▲ | princevegeta89 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | I have been all-in on Logitech keyboards and mice for years now. In the beginning it was just the unifying receiver but they've recently switched over to the Bolt receiver. Unfortunately the Bolt receiver is not backwards compatible with devices made for the unifying receiver. You can pair a single device to multiple receivers and the "switch" button on each device will let you cycle between each receiver. I use the same keyboard and mouse with both my personal computer and my work computer. Every time I need to switch, I just need to use the device switch button on the keyboard and the mouse. | |
| ▲ | frosted-flakes 3 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | Any Logitech device that supported both Bluetooth and Unifying, such as the MX Master, allowed you to cycle through up to stored 3 connections of either type. The older, cheap devices generally only had a single connection. Logitech also makes or made keyboards with 1-2-3 hot swap keys that allowed quick switching with a single press. |
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| ▲ | GeekyBear 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| > 1) The the microswitches go bad after a couple years. I've got to mention how reliable the switches used to be. I purchased a wired Logitech mouse in the 90's that lasted through three different computers. More recent models fail quickly with such regularity that I just stopped purchasing the brand at all. |
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| ▲ | stavros 4 days ago | parent [-] | | My G5 lasted for more than a decade, I think? It didn't even go bad, I bought a new mouse and used its switches to fix the (at that point one year old) Logitech trackball I had bought much later. |
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| ▲ | all2 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| I used my anywhere MX until one of the switches gave out. I'm pretty sure I found replacements on Mouser, and those parts -- and the mouse -- are buried somewhere in my TODO project bins. |
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| ▲ | choo-t 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| You don't really have to replace the microswitch, at least on my Logitech (M570) I can pull them open, bend the metal strip a little, close the switch back and I'm good for another year or two. It's still tedious, as the metal strip is really small and is hard top manipulate, but far easier and less risky for the pcb than desoldering. |
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| ▲ | Tsiklon 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Logitech appear to have made the unifying receiver legacy tech now. Preferring their Bolt receiver going forward. This does have a USB-C receiver available but not supplied with their devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F9DWFSHP |
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| ▲ | xp84 4 days ago | parent [-] | | Hmm... $30 and only being sold by third-party sellers there. That's not encouraging. Hope that's a temporary inventory shortage because of pent-up demand and not a sign that they barely intend to make any of these. Because I have a half drawer worth of various of the compact USB-A receivers and have literally never seen any USB-C equivalents in real life yet... It's time. |
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| ▲ | account42 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| > 1) The the microswitches go bad after a couple years. It's possible to replace them, but it's tedious and you run a very real risk of damaging the PCB (as I have already done). I have the same problem (with a different mouse model/manufacturer). Sometimes you can even "repair" the switches without de-soldering them by opening up the case and bending the metal contact a bit. I put "repair" in quotes because the repaired switches don't seem to last as long as new ones but at least it's easy to do and doesn't need any tools besides a screw driver. |
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| ▲ | bodge5000 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| I use an Anywhere MX too, my main issue with it is the loose ratcheting on the mouse wheel, the tiniest bit of pressure will move it and the ratchet mechanism feels quite mushy. From what I hear, you can change the sensitivity of it, but A) only in their software (which doesnt run on Linux) and B) it's not stored on the mouse itself (which means I can't just change it on my Mac and then move back to Linux). I think I have the Anywhere 3, maybe the 2S is better. |
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| ▲ | alnwlsn 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| >1) The the microswitches go bad after a couple years. I had this happen to my shop PC mouse's left button. I was too lazy to get another mouse or desolder and put in a new switch, so I tried drilling a small hole in the top of the switch and squirted some Deoxit in there. That fixed it. Later, the right button went bad too, so I did the same thing. Now it's been a year and it's still working. |
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| ▲ | Scoundreller 4 days ago | parent [-] | | My speculation: this is due to the lower and lower voltages that “long battery life” wireless mice run. It’s not necessarily that switches have lowered in quality, it’s that you get less current flow at 1.8V or whatever than 5V and any added resistance exacerbates that. Maybe adding another pull-up resistor in parallel with the existing one can buy more time per switch. |
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| ▲ | WhyNotHugo 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| +1 to this mouse (edit: I have the MX Anywhere 3S actually, a recent iteration) Although the first one had its primary button stop working after 3 months. But they sent a replacement. I fear it won't last much more after the warranty period ends. I'll also add that it works great over Bluetooth — look ma, no dongle! |
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| ▲ | rs186 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| I am not sure about your claim of damaging the PCB when replacing the micro switch -- I am terrible at soldering and do it no more than twice a year. Yet I was able to replace the switch on MX Vertical without any issue. |
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| ▲ | stronglikedan 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| Are you sure the microswitch thing is as widespread as you imply? Or could you have just got a bad unit? I have one at work and one at home, and have used them both daily for many more than a couple of years. |
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| ▲ | stavros 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | I had two mouses get that problem about a year in. One was the MX Master 3S, a 100 € mouse. For that price point, it's entirely unacceptable for the mouse to only last a year. Good thing it had a two year warranty, but it's such a hassle to be without a mouse for weeks. | | |
| ▲ | xp84 4 days ago | parent [-] | | My first MX Master 3S had a bad right or left click button on Day 1, which would miss clicks constantly. Thankfully it was pretty easy to get a warranty replacement for this, which came as a full retail-boxed unit, so I now have an extra receiver too (I understandably had to mail in the useless defective mouse itself). |
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| ▲ | Night_Thastus 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Nope, it's a known logitech problem. A couple of my Logitech mice started to get double-click issues later in their life. They cheap out with the switches, the Kailh ones don't have those issues. | |
| ▲ | bityard 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | It's highly variable. Some last much longer than others. The microswitches they use are very common jellybean parts and Logitech probably changes manufacturers all the time. |
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| ▲ | gaoshan 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| I am a diehard MX Vertical Mouse user. My wrist thanks me every day that I use it. |
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| ▲ | mcdonje 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] |
| Built in rechargeable batteries are a plus, not a minus. |
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| ▲ | apricot 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | I disagree. I'm still using hardware that I bought at the turn of the century (a wireless mouse and an MP3 player) because they are powered by rechargeable AAA cells. If they used a built-in battery, I would have had to replace the battery, which is much more complex than changing a AAA cell. I have three recent electronic devices that I would like to keep using but cannot, as their battery has reached end of life, replacements are hard to find, and changing the battery involves performing surgery on the device that I'm not confident I can do safely. | |
| ▲ | the_snooze 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | I consider them a minus because the proprietary batteries will likely fail before the rest of the mouse does. Using standard batteries means you’re not at the mercy of Logitech’s warranty when that happens. I wish more devices use standard batteries, but planned obsolescence is a hell of a drug. | | |
| ▲ | nfriedly 4 days ago | parent [-] | | FWIW, some of logitech's mice use "standard" rechargeable batteries - they look like an AA battery and are roughly as easy to replace (after 5-10 years of use). | | |
| ▲ | Zak 4 days ago | parent [-] | | AA-size Li-ion is called "14500" for anyone needing to source these. I'd love a mouse (or various other gadgets for that matter) that uses one behind a tool-free battery door. | | |
| ▲ | Scoundreller 4 days ago | parent | next [-] | | Since the mice run 2xAA in series, you might get away with running one of those and jumping the other cell space. If 3.7-4.2V is too much to handle, jump with a 1n4148 diode or two in series. | | |
| ▲ | Zak 4 days ago | parent [-] | | My Logitech G604 takes only one AA. I'm not sure the advantages over NiMH (lighter weight, higher capacity) are worth soldering in diodes especially when the efficiency loss would negate the capacity advantage. |
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| ▲ | nfriedly 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | I just went and took mine apart, it's a Logitech Performance MX, and it uses a NiMi battery: 1.2v, 180mA, 1900mAh. The battery door pops on and off with a fingernail. They really do look like dead-ringers for AA batteries. I bet you could run the mouse off of a regular AA as long as you didn't try to plug it in! | | |
| ▲ | Zak 4 days ago | parent [-] | | That is an AA battery. A web search suggests those shipped with Panasonic Eneeloops, which are probably the best-regarded NiMH AA for general use due to their shelf stability and long service life. |
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| ▲ | justinparus 4 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Support for standard battery cells is seriously underrated! Especially when you are on-the-go and your mouse dies, all you need to do is swap in a fresh rechargeable AA/AAA. No need to deal with a cable or waiting for a recharge. | |
| ▲ | Lalabadie 4 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | My wireless controller eventually convinced me that AA/AAA rechargeable batteries give the same benefit, but you can swap them in a few seconds instead of getting stuck waiting for a recharge. |
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