| ▲ | 1970-01-01 15 hours ago | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The idea is your inline fuse overheats and melts instead of the entire controller turning into fire due to the heat cooking the plastic at the rail or terminal. It's a passive device for both overcurrent and overheating. Or just step into 2026 and use mag breakers, there are lots of DC breakers that do this: https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Circuit-Isolator-Magnetic-D... | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ▲ | BenjiWiebe 14 hours ago | parent [-] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The issue wasn't heat generated by excessive current, but heat generated by excessive resistance and normal current. Mag breakers and fuses won't help. A thermal fuse could work,provided it was thermally bonded to the bad connection. So you'll need a lot of thermal fuses - one at every potential bad connection. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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