Refactoring cuisine: how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore

It’s interesting to note what ‘cultural staples and customs’ are actually a recent invention (in the grand scheme of things) or likewise popularized through corporations that advertised so hard that they embedded themselves into the very cultural fabric.

Cf. hamburgers being maybe 100 years old; tomato sauce being only put on pasta in the late 18th century; ‘standard Italian’ not being codified until the unification of Italy in the late 19th century (one reason why Italian-Americans perhaps say capisch instead of capisci? Some southern accents dropping the -i! [really, they’re languages——languages are just dialects with an army]), the food that we call kimchi today only popularly containing peppers starting in the 19th century; and the whole thing with car companies in the United States tearing up tram tracks and lobbying for jaywalking to be considered a crime!

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roughly 4 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-]

I love these kinds of tales of cultural fusion, because they're so much the norm in human history, and yet we've got this weird idea of fixed identities, categories, and cultures - trace any food, any dance, any music or art back far enough and you're walking continents, and frequently not the ones you think.

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infinitewalk 3 hours ago | parent [-]

The interesting thing is, for a long time I didn't really think about it. I never thought about why I never saw this dish outside of my families dinner table as a kid, and later when I was an adult, I never really questioned what this oddly familiar but distant stew was in middle eastern restaurants.

It was only when I moved out of home and decided to try and recreate it I realized how unique it was!

Makes me wonder how many other similar stories exist in other peoples homes.

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oliculipolicula 3 hours ago | parent [-]

Can I ask you about the calamansi? Filipinos tend to prefer them ripening (never fully ripe), but it looks like the unripe ones are more common in malay cuisine? Your recreation seem to have used store-bought juice?

Did Rose's version not have the calamansi?

The garnishing, was that cilantro? What choice of rice brings you back to the childhood?

Thanks! This was quite eye-opening. The tiniest details are essential!!

There are also other ethnic takes, like Kuah bamia/bamia kambing (close to the original,lamb; north Indian version would add yoghurt, South would be (fermented?)coconut milk?), nonya okra stew (Straits Chinese,adding tamarind like you mentioned, different spices)

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infinitewalk 3 hours ago | parent [-]

> Can I ask you about the calamansi? Filipinos tend to prefer them ripening (never fully ripe), but it looks like the unripe ones are more common in malay cuisine? Your recreation seem to have used store-bought juice?

I'm pretty sure I typically see them fully green when in Singapore, but not 100% sure.

I tend to alternate between using calamansi (if I manage to find them), or instead the bottled calamansi extract (which still works pretty well!).

> Did Rose's version not have the calamansi?

By Rose's version are you referring to https://www.jewishfoodsociety.org/stories/the-flavors-of-ira... ?

If I recall, it doesn't include calamansi but instead lemon juice, I'm not sure if this is an ingredient substitution or not. I've tried making it with lemon juice, but it just misses the exact flavour profile I remember from my childhood.

> The garnishing, was that cilantro?

Yep, that is cilantro (I just happened to have some on hand).

> like bamia kambing (close to the original,lamb; Indian version would add yoghurt), nonya okra stew (Chinese,adding tamarind like you mentioned, different spices)

Thanks for mentioning these! I'm not too familiar with them, but would be keen to try them.

	▲	oliculipolicula 3 hours ago \| parent [-]
		Yes, that book. It could be that calamansis are not common in AU at that time, that makes sense. I think I saw it referenced in your recipe. The cilantro remind one of briyani, imho, I don't know if the briyani-likeness would make a difference? Here's one https://www.peranakanmuseum.nhb.gov.sg/learn/digital-resourc... I find it fascinating that the diff is almost only the "source of tartness"! Thanks! PS, your story could even make it into that site..

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kazinator 2 hours ago | parent | prev | next [-]

> how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore

Spoiler: it was a stewaway.

	▲	infinitewalk 2 hours ago \| parent [-]
		Damn. That's a much better title

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Nursie 2 hours ago | parent | prev [-]

> For example, the paradox of Grandfather’s axe where the handle and the blade have long been replaced

For a pop-culture reference, probably known mostly in the UK, see "Trigger's Broom".

The character Trigger is a street sweeper and is given an award by the council for using the same broom for 20 years. Later he reveals the trick to good broom maintenance is to replace parts when they start to go, and says it has had 17 new heads and 14 new handles.