| ▲ | technothrasher 5 hours ago |
| > other owners say it runs fine without coolant, oil, etc Um, no. Go ahead dump your oil and coolant, go drive your car, and report back how "fine" it did. (No, please don't actually do this. Although here's a guy who did, for the clicks. The Honda did impressively well, but it wasn't "fine". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyejT4VPzlE) |
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| ▲ | olyjohn 3 hours ago | parent | next [-] |
| My friend ran his 1995 Civic about 40 miles with no coolant in it. It warped the head and blew the head gasket. But I skimmed the head, put in a new gasket and got another 50k out of it before selling it. It didn't have a single problem the whole time I had it. |
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| ▲ | roflchoppa 5 hours ago | parent | prev [-] |
| Coolant sure, my RSX has a radiator leak for the past 2 years. Oil not so much. |
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| ▲ | bch 2 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | I had a friend who had a Honda (edit: actually, Toyota iirc) for ~15 years that didn’t know it had oil; So when they sold it and was asked how often the oil was changed, the potential buyer was met with a quizzical look. Tires and gasoline and window washer fluid was its maintenance. | | |
| ▲ | throwawaylaptop 2 hours ago | parent [-] | | I find that a bit hard to believe. Someone in that family knew and took care of it sometimes. The longest I've seen a used car go without an oil change was 40k miles and it was changed when it started making noise instantly on startup. That was basically 90k to 130k. Sure 0 to 40k would go a bit better.. but not 15 years of typical driving. Between carbon blowby, gasoline dilution, oil burning at the rings/cylinder walls even if minimal, no car is making it 15 years if the person drives more than 5k miles a year IMO. |
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| ▲ | jabl 5 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | Just pour coolant in via the oil cap. It'll be fine. /s | | |
| ▲ | potato3732842 5 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | On older heavy equipment of low value and high difficulty servicing (think like a forklift or skid steer) it's not uncommon to replace the coolant with oil to mitigate a head gasket issue and simply drain some oil and add to the coolant on some semblance of a schedule. | | |
| ▲ | bluGill 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | One of my favorite tractors was the old Oil Pull's which were designed for oil in the radiator. (they were a gas engine, but designed to run on "tractor fuel" which is closer to diesel than gasoline - in order to work the engine had to be very hot) | | |
| ▲ | jabl 4 hours ago | parent [-] | | It's of course possible to design engines to be oil cooled, though water-glycol tends to be preferred due to about twice the specific heat capacity, meaning smaller coolant channels, radiators, and fans are required. | | |
| ▲ | throwawaylaptop 2 hours ago | parent | next [-] | | Is it specific heat that we care about, or rate of heat transfer?
Specific heat matters a bit, but if you make your coolant take twice the energy to change 1 degree, the same thing happens on the radiator side and you must release twice the heat to cool 1 degree. Rate of heat transfer in general if probably more important. | |
| ▲ | bluGill 2 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | I don't think it occurred to anyone in 1905 that a water/glycol mix might be good. They either used straight water with a warning to drain the engine when you shut down in cold weather so it didn't freeze, or they used oil. My 1939 tractor has instructions to start the engine and then pour water in the radiator when it is below freezing. |
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| ▲ | roflchoppa 4 hours ago | parent | prev [-] | | I gotta hit VTEC I need oil :) |
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