I have the opposite experience: C++ is what I have the most experience with by a very wide margin, but I find reading other people's rust code way easier than other people's C++ code. There's way more weird features, language extensions and other crazy stuff in C++ land.

I think both Rust and C++ are behemoths. I do not even know what "proper" "modern" C++ is.

I believe you, I haven't contributed a lot of C++ code and it's quite possible the projects I have contributed to (e.g. godot engine) just happen to be written very legibly.