| ▲ | exabrial 3 days ago |
| All I know is a triple fisherman's is nearly impossible to untie in 5.6mm UHWMPE after taking a whip on a sling made out of it. It's sort of comforting have the rock hard knot; it'll break the cordelette before untying. Interestingly, an unweighted one is pretty simple to untie! |
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| ▲ | BuildTheRobots 3 days ago | parent | next [-] |
| HowKnot2 have been making empirical testing videos on climbing knots and gear which have proved fascinating and often unintuitive. If you'd like to see a break-strength test comparing single, double and triple fisherman’s knots, you might enjoy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CAjUi47QMY For reference, a 100kg climber is unlikely to be able to cause more than 14kn of force on a dynamic rope, (in reality, significantly less,) even if they go out of their way to find the worst case fall-scenario. Most belay loops are rated at 15kn, human bodies start breaking at 8-12kn and HowKnot2 says that a double-figure-8 (the standard rope<->harness knot) all break at around 14kn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4CVFRE0pRg&t=500s |
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| ▲ | exabrial 3 days ago | parent | next [-] | | Do you by chance mean 5kn, not 14kn? I believe thats the threshold of injury. I believe > 8kn is pretty much certain death, but I don't have a direct source. Actual tests: * https://web.archive.org/web/20250712222155/https://www.howno... * https://web.archive.org/web/20240125125133/https://www.howno... | | |
| ▲ | pcthrowaway 3 days ago | parent [-] | | The anchor experiences greater force in a fall than the climber. | | |
| ▲ | exabrial 2 days ago | parent [-] | | Ah I see now, "force experienced by rope" not "force experienced by climber" :) |
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| ▲ | Ntrails 2 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | > a double-figure-8 (the standard rope<->harness knot) will break at around 14kn My understanding (based on some training aeons ago) is that the figure 8 knots prevalence for tying in is not due to that strength - but instead because it is easy to check, hard to back through/untie during usage, and strong when mis-tied (ie errors are made and not caught). | |
| ▲ | SAI_Peregrinus 3 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | The double-figure-8 is pretty rare in climbing, it's the regular figure-8 loop that's used. Sometimes called a "figure-8 follow-through" to describe the tying method. The "double-figure-8" has two loops, it's not at all commonly used in climbing. Mostly just for some improvised rescue situations as part of an improvised harness to replace a damaged harness's leg loops. | | |
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| ▲ | rkomorn 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] |
| It's not often I come across a comment that I wouldn't understand any less if it was in a language I don't speak but I think this one makes the cut. Holy topic-specific terminology, Batman! |
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| ▲ | jkingsman 3 days ago | parent | next [-] | | > All I know is a [knot used to join a length of rope into a circle/loop, performed three times) is nearly impossible to untie [when tied with large-diameter polyethylene plastic rope] after [falling (while climbing) and being caught by the loop I made to take load] made out of it. It's sort of comforting have the rock hard knot; it'll break the [loop itself, structurally] before untying. Interestingly, [if you don't tighten the knot by dropping bodyweight from a height on it like I did, they're] pretty simple to untie! | | | |
| ▲ | Etheryte 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | Related: "How I, a non-developer, read the tutorial you, a developer, wrote for me, a beginner" [0]. [0] https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=45328247 | | | |
| ▲ | gilleain 3 days ago | parent | prev | next [-] | | All we need is a fisherman-toplogist, and we can perfect the incomprehensibility of the discussion on particular knots. | |
| ▲ | afandian 3 days ago | parent | prev [-] | | This may help. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TUHgGK-tImY Or may not. |
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| ▲ | bubblyworld 3 days ago | parent | prev [-] |
| You probably know this already if you climb, but in east germany and the czech many areas mandate knots as protection, jamming them in cracks: https://www.climbing.com/travel/soft-stone-rigid-ethics-elbe... Supposedly cams and nuts damage the rock. Pretty gnarly stuff. And it's often sandy off-widths as well... |
