I wonder if people who do things like this and free soloing "just" have some unique wiring in their brain where they don't care about instantaneously dying because of some small mistake they make. Or, is it just a matter of continually ratcheting up the difficulty - "I did a 1 foot wave, why not a 2 foot wave, why not a 3 foot wave, etc"?

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mrgoldenbrown 15 hours ago | parent | next [-]

I think it's easy enough to acclimate to the activity. If you are doing something "normal" like driving 75mph on the highway and make a small mistake, like wrenching the steering wheel to the left , you could easily die or kill someone else. But we hand out licenses like they are candy. Woodworkers using a table saw all day are one small mistake away from permanent maiming , and most don't even bother to spend the extra few hundred dollars to mitigate that risk by upgrading to a SawStop. Most people, I think, are good at telling themselves they are better/smarter/more skilled than the people who get hurt.

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rurban a day ago | parent | prev [-]

They are just suicidal.

I did surf big waves, but certainly not Nazare nor Mavs. That's just too dangerous.

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heckelson 18 hours ago | parent [-]

I know very little about surfing, can I ask why it is so dangerous?

	▲	rurban 17 hours ago \| parent [-]
		The biggest danger is being shredded. Why is such a wave so big? Because the coast is extremely shallow suddenly. Normally 1m-50cm, but when a big wave comes, all the water in front of the wave is sucked into it back, which makes it about 10-20cm deep. And it is sucked back really fast, because it is not deep. So if you miss such a wave and fall down, you end up there in the impact zone, which is also the shredding zone. There are either rocks or coral reefs, both extremely unhealthy when being shredded along, even if you still have your board. Normally not. And then you are sucked back into the next wave impact zone with high speed, which is un-nicer, because then you are not just shredded along, but also hit big from above into the ground. Where you usually break some arm or leg, or just hit your head into the rock and then drown. The few people who survive this do have professional help by the jet skiers, who try to catch you before the next impact. Your only chance is to get your board from the leach as soon as you get up, and paddle as fast as possible to the side, across the stream to survive the next impact. It's not interesting at all, pure danger. Like running across a highway without looking.