I've finally found a good setup for me: Obsidian syncing to cloudflare R2. The notes are not encrypted in cloudflare (which I would prefer) - that's next on my list.

Seconding Obsidian for notes. Really happy with the editor, it's got nice formatting and all notes synced on desktop/laptop/phone. I just use their paid syncing though. I also ignore all the graph and mindmapping stuff.